Portrait Lighting for Beginners: Camera and Lights
This article is part of the ‘Portrait Lighting For Beginners’ series. This series is meant to help you go from a beginning photographer to making beautiful portraits.
Obviously, before you can take any portraits, you’ll need two key things: a camera and some light. In this installment, I’ll tell you what you need to know about the camera, what you need to know about the light, and what you need to know to make the two work together.
The Camera
You have a lot of options in choosing a camera for portraiture. To be honest, you could get yourself a point and shoot (P&S) camera, find some natural light, set things up the right way, and come away with some very acceptable photographs. But if you want to consistently take great photos and always have control over how they look, you need to invest a little extra cash and get yourself a single lens reflex (SLR) camera. If you’re new to this, you’ve seen them before, they’re the cameras with the interchangeable barrel shaped lenses.
But even within the SLR category, there are tons of choices, and it’s tough to navigate the options if you’re not familiar with all of the features. Throw in the wide price range (let’s say $500 to over $4000), and anyone new to the world of SLRs will get a headache in no time.
There are a few main features you get with an SLR that make it ideal for portrait photography:
- Quality: An SLR has a much larger sensor than a P&S camera, and the image quality can’t be beat.
- Manual control: You have total control over all settings.
- Lenses: Lenses available for SLR cameras are vastly superior (especially if you have mucho $$) to P&S cameras. In addition, you can keep lenses on hand that have different focal lengths (zoom).
- Connectivity to flashes: SLRs have at least one way to connect to small flashes and large studio strobes. This is important to start producing consistent, controlled portraits.
- Less shutter lag: This is a biggie for those who photograph kids and babies. If you’ve ever tried to capture a fleeting moment with a P&S, you know the frustration of waiting for a camera to react and then missing the moment because the camera was too slow. SLRs have a lag that measures in fractions of a second, which means you never miss the action when you press the shutter. And kids move fast.
Since I’m a Canon guy, I’ll use Canon cameras as examples. If you’re just starting out and want your first SLR, the Canon Digital Rebel line of cameras is a great way to start. At the low end you have the Digital Rebel XT at about $500. Moving on up the chain, you have the Canon 30D, which is the best Canon SLR before you get into the uber-expensive full frame SLRs. If you’re reading this, you probably aren’t ready to dump $2700 on a new Canon 5D. My primary camera is a Canon 20D, which is the 30D with a smaller LCD screen on the back. It wasn’t worth an extra $500 for the extra screen to me.
To really research and compare what you want, check out DPReview.com. You’ll find incredibly in-depth information on any camera ever made. This will really help you before you make a big purchase.
The Lights
So now that I’ve told you about the plethora of choices on cameras, the good news is that there are even more choices when it comes to lighting!
Lighting can be basic or it can be complex. Starting out on the simple side, lighting can be from the sun, a window, desk lamps, ceiling lights, etc. On the more complex end you have multiple strobes fitted with umbrellas, softboxes, gels, honeycombs, snoots, gobos… Don’t worry, this will all make sense as we work through the series.
My advice when starting out is to get yourself a couple
of shoe mount style flashes, the kind that would attach right onto the top of your camera. If you’re shooting Canon or Nikon, these can be really expensive, anywhere from $250 to $550 a piece. The good news is that you have no intention of putting these things on your camera, so you have the option to choose much less costly alternatives. Even getting a Vivitar 285HV flash ($89) is no problem if you use a Canon camera, as long as you’re not putting the flash right on top of the camera.
The reason I advise starting out with small flashes is that they are cheaper than big strobes, and they are portable and battery powered. Big studio strobes run on household current, and can’t be taken to the middle of a park without expensive battery packs. Small flashes can be tossed in a pocket or backpack and you can set up your shoot anywhere you like. This is important, because if you want to challenge yourself and learn to take your portraiture to the next level, you’ve gotta learn how to get outside and balance flash with ambient light.
Big strobes can come later. Even if you buy the biggies now, I promise you’ll still be buying the small flashes later for location work. I know, because that’s how I did it.
Putting It All Together
So now you have an idea of what you need for a camera and flashes. Let’s talk about how to make them play nice.
You have two options when you want to use a flash: use it on camera or off camera. Scratch that, you only have one option. Don’t even think about putting a flash on your camera, unless of course you want to see what a bad photo looks like (grin). Okay, so we’re going with off camera. You have two options here to fire the flash: wired or wireless.
Wired is certainly the cheapest solution. If your camera and flash both have a PC connection, a 15 foot PC cord will set you back about $10. If your flash doesn’t have a PC connection, you can get a handy PC to hot shoe adapter for about $10. If your camera doesn’t have a PC connection, you can get a hot shoe to PC adapter for about $10. So if you’re a math whiz, you’ve already figured out that even in the very worst case scenario of needing adapters for everything, your wallet is lighter by $30. Not bad. PC cords do have their downside though. They are a little fragile and the tips can be fairly easily bent and broken. Plus, you can only put the flash as far from the camera as your cord will reach. This of course, leads us into the wireless options.
The big advantages of wireless are the increased flexibility in where you move your strobes, and the obvious absence of wires. If you’re photographing kids, the lack of wires to trip on (and knock over your expensive gear) is a huge plus. Like every thing else though, you’ve got options.
Some flash systems have built in infrared communications for triggering. Nikon and Canon flashes have this. The problem is that it’s expensive, short range, and can be less than reliable. On the plus side, you can use the automatic features of your flashes with this kind of setup. But that’s okay, because you’re going to go manual anyway.
Then there are the “eBay triggers”. Gadget Infinity makes some triggers that are cheap (around $25) and relatively reliable. I haven’t tried these myself, but I understand they can be a great option for the hobbyist who wants to go wireless without backing up the dump truck full of cash.
Finally, there are the world famous Pocket Wizards. When you want incredible range (how’s
1600 feet for ya?), reliability, and flexibility, the Pocket Wizard can’t be beat. If you’re a pro or thinking of going pro, this is your new best friend. They’re expensive at about $180 a piece (gotta have two to start out with!), but you could never get a shot like this one from Sol Tamargo down in Maya Riviera without them. You can set up your flash, walk away (a long way away), and still get the shot. Plus, you can even trigger your camera with them. Heck, trigger your camera and multiple flashes with the push of a button. These are a tough act to beat.
I use Pocket Wizards, and once you start heading down this road of creative portraiture, you’ll start coveting them. That’s a promise. You’re probably already coveting them…aren’t you?
Being able to hook up a flash wirelessly and hide it away some place to get an extraordinary effect opens up all kinds of creative doors. It means your photographs will never be the same again!
Here are a few resources that you might find helpful on this topic:
- Strobist: Lighting 101: PC Cords and Pocket Wizards
- Pocket Wizard
- Gadget Infinity
- DPReview.com
- Buy these accessories right here on Sublime Light
Next up in this series, we’ll talk about the other accessories that you can use to make your portraiture easier and better. Don’t worry though, now that you’ve shelled out for a camera and some lights, this other stuff is a drop in the bucket.
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December 19th, 2007 at 10:00 pm
Tim: I have Pocket Wizards and used them to trigger remote cameras and studio lights. I have since purchased a Qflash and the Quantum receivers and transmitters that go with the Qflash. Should I hang on to my Pocket Wizards or sell them? The Quantum transmitters and receivers work fine with my White Lightning lights as well. What do you think. I can always use the cash from the Pocket Wizards to purchase other gear (like a D3 or one of Nikons new lenses).
Great information! Thanks. I have occassionally helped a photographer by carrying his Qflash and this gives me a better understanding of what he is trying to do and get me to do. Keep it up.
Stan
December 24th, 2007 at 10:37 am
Hi Stan,
It looks like you’ve gone down two separate roads of gear, the Quantum and the PW routes. I’ve never personally worked with any of the Quantum products, but they look pretty cool to me. If you like the Quantum products better, then certainly go down that route and cash in the PWs for some more Quantum gear. Just don’t get any more Nikon gear…just kidding!
I couldn’t live without my PWs, though like I said, I’ve never used Quantum stuff.
December 25th, 2007 at 11:50 pm
TIm: I really do love my Quantum stuff. I especially like the Qflash light. It basically gives me studio lighting on the go. I use the Qflash on a monopod and constantly move it around and adjust the power. Their recievers and transmitters/transcievers seem to work as well as the PWs. I am not sure if they have as much range as the PWs but they do work well in all my wedding venues. If set up correctly, they seldum if ever fail. I guess I am going that route. Too late to turn back now. Thanks for your response.
Stan
January 21st, 2008 at 6:59 am
These are some great articles perfect for any dSLR Dad on the principles of lighting and lighting setup. Great work Tim.
http://www.dslrdad.com
January 12th, 2009 at 8:54 pm
I know, I’m new to this whole digital world, but I don’t understand why you primarily use on with 8.2 megapixels. Isn’t the idea to get one with the most megapixels? I almost always photograph babies & small children. The digital world is throwing me into a loop! Would the Canon 20D still be a great choice for photographing little ones? Are 8.2 megapixels enough to make a picture good enough to blow up to a 16×20 size? THANK YOU for the time you’ve spent writing these very helpful articles!
January 13th, 2009 at 8:39 am
BB,
Thanks for the comment and question. Here’s the simple answer: 8 mega pixels is plenty for most photographers out there!
For many years now, the camera companies have been in a war of pixels. They’ve (successfully) convinced consumers that more pixels means better photos. This is simply not true. My D30 (with only 3 mega pixels) takes every bit as good a photo as my 20D (at 8 mega pixels). I can easily make a great looking 16×20 with my 20D, and a great looking 8×10 with my D30.
Since nearly all print purchases are 8×10 or smaller, I have no qualms about using a 8 MP camera. In fact, as both my wife and I shoot sessions, we always use the D30 in addition to the 20D. We haven’t had a problem with resolution yet.
I’m currently debating whether to get a newer camera. I’m looking at the 50D or maybe the 5DmkII. But resolution doesn’t really factor into the equation for me. If anything, the larger files would slow me down. Mostly I’m looking at camera features and ISO noise characteristics. But I’ll probably just stick with my 20D and get more high quality lenses.
January 13th, 2009 at 10:50 am
Wow, you’re right! I was confused by all the advertising that leads you to believe you simply MUST have the highest megapixels in order to have a large crisp picture. I’m probably getting a Canon 20D, and I just need to have the ability to blow up images to 16×20 size. (I’m in the beginning stages of my photography business, and that’s the largest size families have asked me for.) Thank you so much for your WONDERFUL help!!
January 13th, 2009 at 10:54 am
BB, no sweat. You’ll be pleased with the 20D, it takes a fantastic photo! The only real gripes I have with it are a) the small LCD screen and b) it doesn’t have near the high ISO performance of the newer cameras. But then, those weren’t gripes when I bought it, because it wasn’t three cameras down the line back then.
January 13th, 2009 at 7:37 pm
Hey, sorry, you’re gonna hate me for asking lots of questions!! My husband and I, both obviously new to this world, just can’t seem to figure one thing out. I found a good deal on the EOS 40D & it threw in a bunch of goodies, including a couple of lenses, tripods, bag, battery, & SD card for $700 and something. But…do I really NEED a camera that can do all that? I want to take beautiful, unique, portraits of families, & babies. Do I need all that camera offers to do this? Or is the great deal on the canon rebel xt for about $200 all I really NEED, and will it be adequate as well as saving some hard earned money?! Considering I still have to buy lights, I’m just so confused.
February 16th, 2009 at 8:15 pm
First off, thank you for these wonderful articles. I have already bought a canon 40d, a couple lenses & two vivitar 285HVs (with the gadget infinity triggers). None of this has arrived yet, and I’m not certain I understand something about the flashes. What do they actually go ON? I read where you said NOT to put them on the hotshoe itself. Should I buy light stands to put them on? I’m sure this is a very silly question, but I’m just not certain. Thank you for your very helpful information!